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If you want to boulder for the first time, you will find that this is very difficult with normal shoes. In many gyms, this is even forbidden.
It is important not to save money on the right shoes. But what features are important in a good climbing shoe for bouldering? And what are the differences between climbing and bouldering shoes?
The following article will help you to inform yourself in detail about the right shoes for bouldering.
What is the Difference Between Bouldering Shoes and Climbing Shoes?
Basically, you have to keep in mind that you can also use climbing shoes when bouldering and bouldering shoes when climbing. This is because the shoes are not so different.
Nevertheless, there are many differences between the individual types. On the one hand, a climbing route is much longer than the distance covered during bouldering. When climbing, the shoes stay on the foot longer. This is why climbing shoes are usually selected according to comfort and then performance.
A bouldering shoe should provide maximum performance in a short time. Because of this, comfort does not play a major role here. This means that a bouldering shoe is usually very uncomfortable, but supports you much better.
Related article: How should climbing shoes fit? Is the shoe too tight?
The Special Features and Design of Climbing Shoes
So that you are optimally supported on plastic as well as on rock, high-performance bouldering shoes and climbing shoes have some tricks built in.
The magic words are downturn and pretension. They strongly influence the shape of the last.
Pretension
Pretension can be understood as the tension that the shoe already exhibits before it is put on. A shoe that has a lot of pretension resembles a banana or a lying C. In this case, the shoe is already bent forward.
This pretension supports you on the wall and on the rock. The shoe allows you to bring a lot of power even on the smallest kicks.
You’re just starting bouldering? Then you shouldn’t choose too much pretension. However, since your foot is not flat on the ground, you should pay attention to a certain amount of pretension.
Downturn
The term downturn can be understood as the curvature of the shoes. It is a curvature of the last in the toe area.
A downturn is therefore very uncomfortable and aggressive and shows even more performance. In most cases, the downturn can only be found with bouldering shoes.
You should note that the more downturn and pretension your shoe has, the more powerful it will be.
In most cases, however, this is accompanied by less wearing comfort. If you stand on your toes and your shoe has a lot of downturn and pretension, you will get a lot more strength on the kick and therefore a lot more control.
If you have a long climbing route ahead of you, you should not necessarily use the highest degree of downturn and pretension due to the lack of comfort.
Upper Materials
Normally bouldering shoes and climbing shoes are made of leather.
Traditional but also more and more current models are made of leather. The advantages of this material are on the one hand in the long durability and on the other hand in good workmanship, which entails a good wearing comfort.
However, the material of course also has a disadvantage. This can be found above all in the fact that leather is a natural material.
In further consequence, this means that the material is deformable. In concrete terms, this means that the shoes become larger through sweat, heat and pressure. This can result in the shoe no longer fitting so well and pedalling becomes more difficult.
It may also cause stability problems. Of course, not only leather, but also other hypermodern and new materials are used in the climbing shoe or bouldering shoe.
Plastics and synthetic materials are often not as comfortable as leather or sometimes even odor-intensive, but they cannot deform as much.
The material Lorica is a rather new discovery. The material feels very comfortable on your foot but does not stretch the shoes as much as leather.
This means that Lorica combines the positive properties of leather with the positive properties of synthetic material.
Click here* to check out climbing shoes made from this material at Amazon.
It is very important that when you buy your shoes you pay attention to the material they are made of. This results from the fact that Lorica does not stretch.
This means that if you buy a shoe that is much too small so that it is not too big later, you will have a lot of bad luck and painful feet with Lorica. This will be the case even after repeated wearing.
You bought your shoe too small? No problem. There’s a little trick you can use to make your shoes bigger. First you have to put on your shoes.
Then take a footbath with warm water. It’s important that you keep your shoe on afterward. Under no circumstances should the shoes be dried on the heater.
If the shoe is still too small afterward, there is unfortunately hardly any possibility to change this. It is now advisable to sell the shoes.
Related article: Climbing shoes stretching 👉 All methods step by step!
Which Manufacturers are there for Bouldering and Climbing Shoes?
The number of manufacturers of such shoes is very manageably small. Nevertheless, you will be provided with a wide choice. You will definitely find the right shoe for your foot shape.
The following shoe manufacturers are well known for the production of bouldering and climbing shoes:
The major part of the market is covered by the manufacturers mentioned above.
It is important to note that all Italian manufacturers, such as Scarpa or La Sportiva, are technically very advanced.
Which Bouldering Shoe Should I Choose?
This question is very difficult to answer.
This results from the fact that different criteria are important for everyone.
Nevertheless, you should consider some aspects before the purchase, so that you will also be happy with the shoes in the long term. You should be aware that a shoe will change after some time.
First of all, you should be aware of your own demands on the shoes. Are you just starting bouldering? Then you should definitely use a typical beginner shoe.
A beginner shoe does not perform as well as another bouldering shoe, but is more comfortable and affordable. Especially if you just want to get a taste of the sport, beginner shoes are ideal.
Related article: The Top 6 of the Best Climbing Shoes for Beginners
This is because you may not be sure how long you want to do it and whether it is the right sport for you.
You’re already trained in bouldering? Then you can spend a little more money on a little more foot power.
Related article: How to Choose Climbing Shoes?
How do I Choose the Right Size of Shoes?
If you are clear about your demands on the shoe, you should consider your own foot. There are serious differences as far as the structure is concerned.
It can happen that you find a bouldering shoe very comfortable, which another can only wear with pain because there are different foot shapes.
There are the following foot shapes:
- Egyptian (decreasing length from big toe to small toe)
- Roman (first toes are (almost) the same length)
- Greek (second toe larger than the big toe)
So you can see that it is very important that you include your foot shape in the decision.
After you know your foot shape, you have to decide whether the model should be more powerful or more comfortable. Of course, you can do without some power and buy a comfortable bouldering shoe for it.
Basically, however, you should find a good compromise. You should try on the shoe in several sizes. So you can try out where your own pain threshold is. Note, however, that most shoes are too big for their size.
You should also note that your bouldering shoe should not be so big that you could walk all day without any problems. Otherwise, you run the risk of slipping out of your shoe in combination with sweat and injuring yourself.
However, the rule always applies: A climbing shoe must not hurt in the long run!
What about the Wear and Tear?
It is important to note that a climbing shoe is exposed to massive forces.
In climbing gyms, you may have to kick against the wall from time to time. However, this should be avoided as much as possible as it is very bad for your shoes in the long run.
Hooks put a lot of strain on your shoes, too. Your heel is put on a kick and your complete bodyweight is lifted up. There is very high pressure on your shoe.
So you can’t avoid the wear of your shoes even if the heel area is rubberized. Of course, you can repair a lot of damage to your shoes yourself. For example, you can glue a detached or torn heel rubber* to extend the life of your shoes.
However, if the sole of your shoe has many holes or is worn out, you will hardly be able to repair it yourself.
In such a case only the way to the shoemaker helps. With no edge shoes*, even the shoemaker can’t do anything anymore in most cases. You have to keep in mind that after the repair your shoes will usually not be as they used to be. Nevertheless, there are many shoemakers who can extend the life of your shoe with solid and good work.
Which Bouldering Shoes should I use with which Underground?
Of course, it also plays a big role on which surface you use the bouldering shoes. The type of the sole should be chosen according to this.
If you climb a lot on friction, a soft sole is the better choice, because a soft sole has more grip and sticks better.
If you climb with small lasts, you should rather prefer a stiff shoe.
In most cases, stiff shoes are designed in such a way that the force can be shifted to the big toes. A higher degree of downturn and preload also contributes to higher stability.
Do you do outdoor bouldering? Then you have to pay attention to the type of rock. It’s got a big part to play. If the ground is limestone, it is rather difficult to climb on friction.
Granite, on the other hand, often has small kicks. Volcanic granite often has no steps at all. In these cases, you often have to climb with your foot into the felt nothingness and then get up. In such a case, a soft shoe is better because it can produce a higher level of friction.
Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions.
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