The 4 Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing + Buying Guide

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Quickdraws are one of the most important accessories in climbing. Simply put, the Quickdraw refers to the connecting piece between the rope and the hook in the wall. 

But every quickdraw is different. There are many different types and also the materials are different. 

Here are the best quickdraws for sport climbing:

This selection is based on quality, experience and all the criteria we will go into in detail throughout the article.

The 4 Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing

Best Overall: Petzl Spirit


The Petzl Spirit Quickdraws* have long been a widely used and popular quickdraw set on the market. If you want the best of the best, you’ve come to the right place.

The carabiners alone are worth mentioning as they are easy to use and extremely stable and safe.

The loop between the carabiners, the dogbone,  is quite thick and robust. So you can also use it sometimes and hold on to it. In certain situations it is important that you can rely on it.

The weight is average. If you have to carry a lot of quickdraws around with you, you should take a closer look at the Black Diamond Oz*. For sport climbing, however, the weight of up to 100 grams of the Petzl Spirit is absolutely fine.

If sport climbing is your main focus, this quickdraw set is perfect for you. They are the gold standard in sport climbing all over the world and by far.

Technical data:

  • Breaking load lengthwise: 23 kN
  • Breaking load transverse: 8 kN
  • Breaking load open: 9 kN
  • Keylock Express
  • Cord material: Polyamide
  • Sling/Dogbone Length: 12..17 cm
  • Weight: 93..100 g

Ideal for Beginners: Petzl Djinn Axess


One of the biggest challenges in sport climbing is to get the rope into the quickdraw as a beginner. You only have one hand free. It is therefore an advantage if the carabiner is as large as possible and easy to use.

This is exactly what the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraws* offer. In addition, they are very stable and have a price that is also very attractive for beginners. 

The lower carabiner is slightly bent on the back so that you can hold it very comfortably while leading the rope through the opening.

However, these quickdraws are one of the heaviest models on the market with 113 grams. This weight is due to the larger carabiners and the higher overall stability. You exchange simple operation for a little more weight. But when it comes to sport climbing, the weight shouldn’t make too much difference. Only with traditional climbing should you pay attention to the weight of your equipment.

The Petzl Djinn Axess Expresses are a very good investment and will serve you very well as a backup set in the future if you buy a premium set like the Petzl Spirit* presented above. 

Technical data:

  • Breaking load lengthwise: 23 kN
  • Breaking load transverse: 8 kN
  • Breaking load open: 9 kN
  • Keylock Express
  • Cord material: Polyamide
  • Slings/Dogbone Length: 12 cm
  • Weight: 113 g

Best Light Weight: Black Diamond Oz 


If you not only enjoy sports climbing but also find trad climbing interesting, the Black Diamond Oz quickdraws* are the best choice for you.

Trad climbing has a lot of equipment with it. That’s why you want every single piece of equipment to weigh as little as possible.

The Oz quickdraws from Black Diamond combine a very low weight with a high stability. The two carabiners are not the easiest to clip, but also not the hardest.

To keep the weight as low as possible, the loop in the middle (dogbone) is only 10 mm wide. It is therefore not as comfortable to grasp when you have to hold on to it as it is with other quickdraws.

However, these disadvantages give you the extremely low weight of 63 grams. Some of them weigh only half as much as other quickdraws, which can have a big impact on the total weight of the equipment.

Another advantage of the low weight is the lower price! 

Technical data:

  • Breaking load lengthwise: 20 kN
  • Breaking load transverse: 7 kN
  • Breaking load open: 7 kN
  • HoodWire Express
  • Cord material: Polyamide
  • Slings/Dogbone Length: 12 cm
  • Weight: 63 g

Budget Pick: Mad Rock Concorde


The best argument for the Mad Rock Concorde quickdraws* is their price.  Especially in the set the price advantage becomes even bigger when you compare them with other quickdraws.

However, there are a few disadvantages which are bought by the low price. The loop or dogbone is with 9 cm very short and with 10 mm very thin. Therefore it is not very comfortable to hold this quickdraw while climbing.

The weight of 87g is actually very good compared to other quickdraws. The carabiners themselves are also easy to use and can withstand a lot.

These quickdraws are nothing special, but offer you all the necessary features and safety you need for sport climbing. For beginners, this is enough! 

Technical data:

  • Breaking load lengthwise: 26 kN
  • Breaking load transverse: 10 kN
  • Breaking load open: 8 kN
  • Wire-Express
  • Cord material: Dyneema
  • Slings/Dogbone Length: 9 cm
  • Weight: 87 g

The Quickdraw

So that the purchase does not become a flop at the end, you should know first of all what a quickdraw is at all. The quickdraw refers to the connection between the rope and the hook in the rock or wall. 

In the climbing gym, the quickdraws are already fixed on the wall. This means that you do not necessarily need your own quickdraws in the gym. 

But this also varies from gym to gym. But you won’t find any support on the rock in the mountains. Here you have to bring your own quickdraws. Each Quickdraw consists of two important components:

  • Sling (Quickdraw sling)
  • Carabiner

The Sling/Dogbone

The sling is especially important for climbing as it is responsible for your safety. Therefore you should always make sure that the sling is made of high-quality materials. 

The sling between the carabiners is also called dogbone because the quickdraw itself looks like a femur.

The biggest difference in production is the material used. The following materials are common:

  • Polyamide
  • Polyethylene


You can see at first sight loops made of polyamide. They’re wider than polyethylene slings. Polyamide fabrics are also dyed and therefore available in many bright colors. 

Polyamide slings are particularly popular with climbers. This is because their width makes them easier to grasp. They are handier and especially beginners like to use polyamide loops. You also know polyamide by the term nylon.


Polyethylene loops are much thinner. Another difference is the smooth fiber. The smooth fiber prevents the loop from being dyed. Therefore loops made of polyethylene are mostly white. 

Sometimes colored slings made of polyethylene are also offered. Here you should absolutely pay attention to the composition. These loops do not consist of one hundred percent polyethylene, but of a mixture of polyethylene and polyamide. 

However, the proportion of polyamide is very low. It only serves to dye the loop. Therefore these slings are also called mixed fiber slings. The coloring is declared as colored parts. Polyethylene loops have a lower weight. 

Some climbers swear by it. They particularly appreciate the sling when bouldering, as the risk of injury is lower. Finally, you should try both loops and have them in your climbing assortment. So you can always adapt the loops to your personal climbing action.

Irrespective of the choice of the sling, you should always ensure that it is manufactured in accordance with the standards. They must withstand a breaking load of 22 kN.

The Structure of the Quickdraw

It is sufficient that you take a closer look at the sling and can distinguish between the terms rope-side and hook-side. Each loop has two carabiners:

  • Hookside carabiner
  • Rope side carabiner

You must be able to see the ends of the loop through the carabiners. The loop is located between the carabiners. The loop can be of different lengths. Thanks to the sling, the rope course is straightened and the rope runs loosely.

Length of Loop

The quickdraw slings are available in different lengths. There are good reasons for this, as the length of the carabiners should prevent them from resting on the rock or climbing wall. 

That is generally not a good idea. This is especially true on a cliff edge. If the carabiner is still in place, you can very quickly find yourself in a serious situation. The pressure of the rock could cause the carabiner to open on its own or even break in the worst case. You avoid the danger by using a longer sling. 

Thus, the loop over the edge of the rock is instead of the carabiner. But the longer quickdraws have still further advantages. 

Multi-rope climbers and alpine climbers generally prefer longer loops, as this helps to straighten the course of the rope. In addition, the rope runs looser throughout the entire tour and is, therefore, easier to handle. In general, the friction is also lower with longer slings. The rope also has fewer bends.

Caution: You should only use the long loops near the ground with caution. Always remember that in the event of a fall, the longer loop also extends the fall distance.

The Carabiners

The carabiners are located at both ends of the loop. They differ in many things.

A decisive difference, for example, lies in the breaking load. Basically, this load is divided into three loads:

  • longitudinal load
  • transverse load
  • load with gate open

All loads are subject to individual standards. The elongated direction must withstand a load of 20 kN. The transverse load has a standard load of 7 kN when the gate is open. You can tell from the information that safety always comes first in climbing. The load standards are extremely oversized.

The noose has a carbine at each end. There is a hook side and a rope side.

  • Hook side: The carabiner on the hook side has the task of absorbing the transverse load. It prevents tilting.
  • Rope side: The carabiner on the rope side has the task of preventing the carabiner and rope from twisting. Therefore it is fixed with small rubber applications.

Another difference is the attachment between carabiner and loop. For example, the loop can be sewn tightly around the carabiner. There are also connections that are sewn in with an internal fixing rubber. 

If you use this Quickdraw, however, you must always make sure that you pass the loop through the carabiner as well as the fixing rubber.

Material of the carabiner

Most carabiners are made of aluminium. The advantage is that they are very robust and light. All mobile carabiners, i.e. the carabiners you use and take with you yourself, are aluminium carabiners. Surely you also know permanently installed carabiners from the climbing gym. These are mostly made of steel. In general, experts recommend using only steel for permanently installed carabiners. These quickdraws are more stable.

Special shapes of carabiners

Screw Quickdraws*

On the market there are still two special forms of carabiners available, but they are used less often. That includes:

  • Screw quickdraw
  • Quickdraws with stiffened loop

The screw quickdraw belongs to the special types of quickdraws that are used less often. 

The special feature of these quickdraws is that they are equipped with a screw carabiner at both ends. You need these quickdraws if you want to prevent the open load of the carabiner during climbing. 

This is particularly good for intermediate belaying, for example. The quickdraws with a stiffened loop are more like replacement quickdraws. For example, they can be used as a makeshift replacement for clipsticks.

The Nose of the Carabiner

I’m sure you’re wondering why carabiners have a nose. It’s not needed to smell. The nose refers to the part of the carabiner located at the tip. This is exactly where the snappers reunite with the carabiner. 

In most cases, there will be a hook there. Carabiners with noses are available in all imaginable shapes. That’s why you will definitely buy quickdraws with a nose carabiner*. Quickdraw sets without nose carabiners are also available.

The Function of a Nose Carabiner

If you look at the quickdraws with nose carabiners, then you can easily see that it is a locking mechanism. In fact, you can imagine the interplay of snapper and nose as with a door lock. Thus the nose functions like a kind of key, which closes the carabiner with the help of the snapper. 

This gives the carabiner its strength. According to the legal standard, a breaking load of at least 20 kN related to the longitudinal load is created when the closure is closed. However, the transverse load is significantly lower. With an open nose carabiner, there is no significant breaking strength.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Nose Carabiners

There are advantages and disadvantages to the use of nose carabiners. You alone have to decide which criteria are more important to you.


Many experts blame only the nose for the break resistance of the carabiner. So by choosing the right nose, you can ensure more safety. The risk of breakage is reduced. In addition, the carabiner does not open when it hits the rock face, for example.

  • More safety when climbing
  • High breaking load
  • Lower risk of breakage

The disadvantages of using a nose carabiner are exclusively related to the size of the hook. Carabiners with large hooks have virtually no disadvantages. They are highly recommended. 

But it looks different if the hook is too small. In certain situations, the nose may get caught on the hook or on the strap’s clamping lugs. In addition, you will quickly notice during use that it is difficult to unhook the rope when climbing up. Even unhooking the rope under load can be a difficult undertaking.

  • Danger of getting caught on the belt
  • Rope is difficult to unhook

Carabiner with Keylock-System

The carabiners with keylock system* are also called nose free carabiners. As the name suggests, they are made without a nose. You can’t get caught in the belt. 

This shape of the carabiner does not require a nose, because the snapper connects directly to the hook. The snapper is also known as the keylock nose. The carabiners with keylock system also have consistently good ratings. 

This is because you can handle them well and the safety of climbing is maximized.

Wire Snap Carabiner with Keylock System

You can also use wire snap carabiners with the keylock system. They connect the wire snap carabiner to a keylock system. This ensures greater stability and break resistance. 

In addition, this carabiner does not open when it hits the wall, for example. A distinction is made here between the following wire snap keylock systems:

  • clean wire
  • monofilament
  • hoodwire
  • wirelock
Clean Wire

This carabiner is not completely made without nose. Rather a kind of bulge is above the nose-good hook. The gate encloses this area.


This quickdraw set requires only one wire pin. This wire pin is located inside the nose. Thanks to the keylock system, the wire pin is firmly united with the snapper.


This quickdraw set also doesn’t really get by without a nose. However, the nose-like hook here is spanned by a small wire hanger. It still harmonizes very well with the snappers. Thanks to the wire bow, hanging with other materials can almost be ruled out.

Wire Look

This system attracts with a classic wire snapper. The Keylock system ensures that the wire catch is completely retracted into the nose. Thus, hanging with other materials is also excluded here.

The Surface of the Carabiner

You have to pay attention to the surfaces of the carabiner when buying quickdraws. There are big differences here. This applies in particular to the processing of the material. The differences do not only apply to the individual models, but also to entire model series. 

You can see high-quality models when you scratch them with your fingers. The surface should always be smooth and without any unevenness. You don’t believe what badly made quickdraws are offered for sale on the market. 

Experts have even found carabiners with noticeable burrs in the test. Be aware that it is precisely these ridges within the rope-receiving radius that can lead to problems. 

Many experts say that all other criteria are secondary when buying quickdraws. Accordingly, the greatest attention should always be paid to the surface quality of the carabiner.

Thick or Thin Carabiners

Some climbers swear by thin carabiners and others bet on the use of thick carabiners. There is certainly no difference in handling here. 

Both forms can be hooked in well and lie well in the hand. But there is a big difference in security. Tests have shown that the use of thin carabiners often leads to a crack or breakage of the carabiner. 

Some were already so extremely damaged after only one crash that it was necessary to replace the quickdraws and the ropes. Material fatigue occurs particularly quickly in carabiners with a material thickness of up to 8.2 mm. If you climb a lot and don’t always want to change your ropes, you should only use thicker carabiners.


Each carabiner is equipped with snaps. The conventional closures are made of simple snaps. But there are also so-called wire catchers.

Conventional Snapper

The conventional snapper is robust and made of hard material. This prevents it from bending quickly. It is characterized by its longevity. It is also available with a keylock system. 

The disadvantage is the weight. Conventional snappers are heavier than wire snappers. You should bear this in mind, for example, if you are setting out on climbing tours lasting several days and generally have to take a lot of luggage with you.

Wire Snapper

Wire snappers have only a low weight. This makes them easier to transport. In addition, the load when hitting the wall or the rock is low and therefore the danger of an open catch is also lower. However, you will need to replace a wire snapper quickdraw set more often, as the snappers are much more sensitive to pressure than conventional snappers. They bend faster.

Wire Snapper and the Whip Lash Effect

The whip lash effect occurs, for example, when the carabiner strikes the wall or rock with high momentum. If the carabiner is not equipped with a locking device, it can open for a short moment. 

It’s the mass inertia that’s to blame. At the moment of the high load, only the carabiner back must absorb the complete force. At this moment, the so-called snapper-open load occurs. 

Depending on the fall height, the carabiner could be deformed. In the worst case, there’s even a rupture. So you can quickly get into a dangerous situation. You can prevent that by using wire catchers to climb. They are not made of full metal. 

This gives them a low mass. The built-in wire is twisted during production. The twisted installation automatically builds up tension. This prevents opening in case of the whip lash effect.

Straight and Curved Snapper

On the market you can get quickdraws with straight and curved snaps. The curved snapper is also known as the bent snapper and the straight snapper as – wait for it – the straight snapper. With the bent snapper, you can clip the rope better. 

The Bent snapper is always used on the rope side. The Straight Snapper, on the other hand, is used on the rock face or climbing wall. It may also happen that both sides of the quickdraw set have a straight gate. In this case, you have to choose the side of the carabiner that has a fixation. You use the side with the fixation on the rope side.

Quickdraws Can Cause Rope Damage

For a long time climbers and experts were in the dark. Brand-new ropes showed considerable damage after only a short period of use. In the beginning, it was believed that the ropes were of inferior workmanship and of poor quality. 

Tests proved the opposite. The use of the ropes was observed and it was concluded that in many cases quickdraws were responsible for the damage to the ropes. 

This was especially true when the quickdraws had burrs on the surfaces. In many cases, burrs were even found that were already protruding from the metal. Not infrequently, the quickdraws used were as good as new. 

That should make you think! As mentioned above, you should test the surfaces before buying quickdraws. Even after a climbing tour you should always check the surfaces. Always remember that these burrs can become a danger, especially in the rope-guiding radius. Some work like a cutting tool. The rule of thumb is:

The rougher, thinner and more uneven the surface of the carabiner is, the more likely it is to damage the rope!

Standards and Specifications

The quickdraws are subject to legal standards. It’s for your own safety. Basically you should buy quickdraws only from well-known suppliers. In addition, you must always make sure that the set meets the standard requirements. 

The standard refers to the standards for all mountaineering carabiners. Carabiners from the climbing area are also referred to as normal carabiners in the standard specifications. There are also standards for transverse loads. 

However, quickdraw sets are available on the market which have an even higher degree of loading. The load factor here is usually over 7 kN. If there is a high degree of lateral loading, then you automatically have to expect a higher price.

Errors in the Use of Quickdraws

When using the quickdraws, always make sure you use them the right way around. Especially beginners tend to hang them upside down. A few climbers even do this regularly. 

In the first moment, there is also no difference to be seen. But just ask yourself why the carabiners on each side are different. If you swap the sides, the breaking load can actually cause the carabiner to break. Keep in mind that there may be an immovable connection. 

This could, in turn, lead to the carabiner on the wall side being clipped out. So you have to make sure that the loop always fits to the wall. 

In principle, all manufacturers in the instructions for use advise against using the quickdraws the wrong way round. 

The Right Quickdraws for Every Climbing Sport

The market for quickdraw sets is saturated. As a buyer, you can quickly lose the overview here. The Quickdraw Set should fit your personal climbing preferences and be suitable for your climbing sport. There are three types:

  • Quickdraws for sports climbers and beginners
  • Multi-rope tour quickdraws
  • Quickdraws for ice climbers

Quickdraws for Sport Climbers and Beginners

Some say that all sets available on the market are suitable for beginners and sport climbers. But it’s not that simple. Sets for beginners and sport climbers usually consist of eight to ten quickdraws. 

Whether the number is sufficient for your climbing activities is up to you. For longer routes, you may need two sets. In general, you should always take a few more quickdraws with you. Especially beginners often have problems balancing and have to work on their skills. 

It’s easy to lose a quickdraw. Also, keep in mind that you always need two more quickdraws for the conversion. In addition, you should always carry a quickdraw with a longer loop with you. 

You never know exactly what you’re going to get when you’re climbing. This is especially true in the mountains. That’s why you’d rather take too many quickdraws than too few.

Quickdraws for Multi-Rope Length Tours

Of course, the beginner’s set is no longer sufficient for multi-rope tours. Here you have to pay attention to the carabiner in the first place. It must always be provided with a larger snap opening. Remember, you’re also using thicker double ropes here. The carabiner must, of course, be tuned to this type of rope. When purchasing a quickdraw set for multi-rope tours, it is advisable to use nose free carabiner.

Quickdraws for Ice Climbers

If you want to climb in ice, you have to make sure that the snapper on the carabiner does not freeze. A quickdraw set with a wire snapper is best suited for this purpose. There are also quickdraws specially made for ice climbing. Here the quickdraws are still additionally equipped with an absorber. These quickdraws are really ideal if you only plan tours in the ice. They reduce the impact force considerably. This gives you an extreme advantage when the securing point is critical. This is the case, for example, with fragile ice.

Installed Quickdraws

Installed quickdraws are permanently fixed quickdraws. These are quickdraws that are placed along a route and remain there for a longer period of time. 

You know these quickdraws, for example, from the climbing gym or from fixed outdoor climbing facilities. You’re not responsible for those quickdraws. The operator of the gym or the climbing facility provides you with these quickdraws. 

It must therefore also ensure that it is in perfect condition and that it is used safely. Usually operators also deal conscientiously with the quickdraws. 

However, this looks quite different if the climbing facilities are freely accessible. Then you should check the quickdraws before climbing. Always make sure that the quickdraws are firmly seated and that there is no damage.

Durability of Quickdraws

Quickdraws have only a limited lifespan. It all depends on how often and how much you use the quickdraws. External circumstances and even storage can also affect the longevity of the quickdraw. Basically you should check the following parts regularly:

  • Slings and tape material
  • Seams
  • Carabiner and snapper

Related article: When to Retire Climbing Gear?

Slings and Tape Material

Loops and tapes may only be used for a maximum of ten years. However, this is the absolute upper limit of usability. If you use the quickdraws permanently, of course they can wear out more easily. 

It also depends on your climbing sport and your climbing style. If your sling often comes into contact with the rock, the material will wear out faster. Wear points can also be seen at the transition between the carabiner and the sling. 

You should also take a look at the surfaces more often and stroke them with your hands. If strong lint forms on the tape material, you must exchange the quickdraw.

But beware: polyethylene does not necessarily produce fluff.

This will not necessarily tell you if the tape is already sealed. A quickdraw belongs in the trash, too, when traces of melting form. quickdraws should always be stored safely. 

Even the slightest contact with chemical liquids causes substances such as polyethylene or polyamide to react. They change the material and have a considerable effect on the strength. The damage is also most of the time invisible.

If the Quickdrawhas come into contact with acids or other chemical agents, it must be replaced immediately.


The weak points of the quickdraws include the seams. It is not unusual for seams to wear almost unnoticed. This is due to the fact that climbers almost always pay attention to the abrasion of the belt material when checking. 

Stripping of the thread is not always directly recognizable. However, it is worth taking a closer look here. If the thread continues to ripple off, the loop may come loose from the carabiner. Remember that the seam is always exposed to a high load. 

Even a small break in a thread can lead to a quick and complete removal.

Carabiner and Snapper

The carabiner is subjected to a great deal of stress in all types of climbing. It is closed and opened again and again and extreme wear is also caused by the passage of the rope. 

As soon as a sharp burr appears somewhere or the carabiner deforms in any way, you have to exchange the quickdraw. You can see signs of wear on the carabiner very well. 

Watch the snapper, too. Once that doesn’t work properly anymore, it’s time for a new quickdraw.

Another good advice: If a quickdraw falls from a height of at least four meters, then you should not use it any longer!

Storage of Quickdraws

Quickdraws should always be stored in a dry place. Also, make sure that the bearing location is not exposed to direct sunlight. UV radiation can affect the tear strength of the quickdraw. 

Quickdraws are designed for outdoor use. They can, therefore, be used in any weather. Nevertheless, they should not be permanently exposed to moisture and humidity. Mold can form during damp storage. The formation of mold can also have an effect on the material.

Special Types of Quickdraws

There are some special shapes for the quickdraws. But these are real exotics that are only used by certain climbers. These quickdraws include:



Frog-Quickdraws* are real exotics. They are rarely used. The special feature of these quickdraws is that they click in from below. The advantage lies in the range. 

For example, you can also reach a drill hole that is no longer in the climbing effect area. However, this is only a range of a few centimeters.



As the name suggests, the Alpine Quickdraws* are used exclusively for alpine climbing. They have very long ribbon loops.



Clipstick-Quickdraws* are often used by sports climbers. The clip stick is an extension on the first hook that is used for curtaining. This gives climbers more safety. 

Also, the handling is simple. The so-called Trango Squid is simply placed over a stick in the front area. Some climbers like to use a lot of quickdraws and block whole climbing routes. You better not do that if you don’t want to get the wrath of other climbers.



Panic-Quickdraws* have the advantage that you can clip earlier. You gain a few inches. The webbing slings of panic quickdraws are extra stiffened in the area of the web.

Weak points of Quickdraws

As a climber, you have to be able to rely on your equipment one hundred percent. 

Although there are rarely breaks or cracks in quickdraws, you should still know the weak points. This is good prophylaxis to prevent accidents and reduce dangerous situations. The biggest weaknesses are:

  • Carabiners
  • Snappers

Weak Point Carabiner

If you consider that extrusion is subject to standards and the carabiners have to withstand an oversized breaking load, then there are too many reported fractures. In addition, there are unrecorded cases and near misses.

Application of Force

You know that from yourself: Crashes while climbing are part of everyday life. Usually nothing happens. This is primarily due to the fact that the carabiner has to withstand a certain breaking load. That’s what the standard says. 

Unfortunately, this is not always the case. If you reconstruct a crash on the rock or in the gym, then forces between at least 2 kN and at most 8 kN act here. That makes a weight between 200 and 800 kg. 

The standards are far oversized. They often prescribe a breaking load of 20 kN. That makes a weight of 2000 kg. So it’s unbelievable that despite this oversizing there are breaks.

Recurrent Accident Mechanisms

You’ve learned a lot about quickdraws now. So you also know that there are different types, shapes and materials of carabiners. However, you can recognize a recurring mechanism in fractures. 

In most cases, notches and unevenness on the carabiner surface were the cause of the fractures. In addition, deformations and also grinding marks have had effects.

Weak Point Snapper

The snapper is also a weak point. However, this applies primarily to category B carabiners. These are so-called basic carabiners. Here the catch has no locking device. 

This allows the gate to open unnoticed. Here, too, a standard regulates the breaking load when the carabiner is open. This is at 7 kN and is again oversized. Nevertheless, a snap-open load can cause the carabiner to break if a lever-action occurs at the same time.

Bottom Line

You will find a wide range of quickdraws on the market. That has advantages and disadvantages. Not all quickdraws keep what they promise. Therefore you have to take a closer look when buying. 

Basically, you should only buy quickdraws from established manufacturers who have already made a name for themselves in climbing. In this way you prevent inferior quality. However, this does not mean that less well-known manufacturers also sell inferior quickdraws. 

You can rule out bad purchases by resorting to quickdraws that adhere to standards. You should always use only those quickdraws that are suitable for your climbing sport.

Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! The information on only helps you to learn. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions.

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