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The belay device is essential when securing and rappelling your climbing partner. A belay device brakes the climbing rope by acting mechanical resistance as friction on the rope. Where in the early days of climbing the body was simply used as a belay device by wrapping the climbing rope around the waist, today there are basically three different types of belay devices:
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- Tube or ATC belay devices without brake assist
- Belay devices with brake assist
- Figure 8
Each type of belay device has its own applications and which belay device you need at the end depends essentially on what type of climbing you prefer.
In this article you will learn which type of belay device has which purpose and how to choose the right belay device. At the end of this article we will give you detailed buying advice for current belay devices:
- Extremely popular: Petzl GriGri 2*
- Cheap and good: Black Diamond ATC XP*
- For multi-pitch routes: Black Diamond ATC Guide*
- For big weight differences: Edelrid Ohm*
The 3 Different Types of Belay Devices
Tube / ATC Belay Devices Without Brake Assist
This is the simplest type of belay device. You can use this type of belay equipment for any type of climbing. Whether you are climbing out on the rocks or in a climbing gym, this belay device can be used everywhere.
The functional principle is the mechanical friction between the belay device and the climbing rope. Each of these belay devices comes with a lockable carabiner. The climbing rope is threaded as a loop through one end of the belay device so that it resembles the loop of the belay device on the other side. Both loops, i.e. the climbing rope and the loop belonging to the belay device, are clipped to the climbing harness with a lockable carabiner.
The other end of the rope is held by your braking hand. This allows you to manually increase the friction extremely, which effectively stops the rope. On the other hand, you can easily release the climbing rope by letting go so that the climber does not feel any resistance when climbing.
Most of these tube belay devices have two slots for ropes. You can also work with half ropes and twin ropes.
You can also use this belay device for abseiling. Two slots are provided for this, so that two ropes can be threaded through the belay device at the same time.
Advantages:
- Suitable for all types of climbing
- Easy to use
- Low weight
- The climbing rope is not damaged when secured
- Can be used for abseiling/rappelling
- Suitable for almost all climbing rope diameters
Disadvantages:
- When abseiling, it is more difficult to maintain a slow speed
Auto-Block Belay Devices
An auto-block belay device is a variation of the normal tube belay device. Auto-block means that if the climber falls, the climbing rope is so tightly clamped that it more or less stops immediately. Some would like to catch the fall of the climber however as dynamically as possible, whereby this auto-block function is often pretty static and abrupt. But this is easy to avoid with some technique. When you see your climbing partner fall, you jump up a bit, making the fall more dynamic.
These belay devices have an extra hole to attach them to an anchor with a carabiner. With such belay devices you can secure a climber and hang it on the wall yourself. This is of course especially practical for multi-pitch routes.
There is a decisive advantage over normal tube belay devices: You only need one hand to lock the rope.
This makes such a device ideal for giving one of the two climbers a break.
However, it is important that at least one hand always holds the rope under a certain tension, otherwise there is no more safety.
The disadvantage is that such auto-block belay devices are harder to use, more expensive and slightly more complex.
Belay Devices With Brake Assist
Belay devices with brake assist give you more safety, handling and control over the climbing rope. The brake assist also conserves your strength, which leaves you with more strength to climb yourself later on.
It is important to emphasize here that the help with braking is only a support and does not relieve you of the work of belaying completely. You still have to control the rope with your hand and be ready when the climber falls.
Handling a belay device with brake assist requires an introduction, as the movements and mechanisms are not self-explanatory. Therefore, I recommend every beginner to work with a normal belay device. After a while and a little more experience you can then switch to a belay device with automatic brake assist.
The brake assist can be active or passive:
- Passive brake assist: Passive brake assist is provided purely mechanically by mechanical friction between the climbing rope and the belay device. The trick with such devices is that the position of the carabiner changes, depending on whether the rope is pulled strongly or not. The stronger the rope is pulled, the more the rope is squeezed in and thus braked. However, the braking force is not as high as with the actively braked belay devices and also depends strongly on the carabiner used.
- Active brake assist: Belay devices with active brake assist are among the best belay devices out there. Its braking force is independent of the carabiner used, as the carabiner is only responsible for attaching the belay device to the climbing harness. The braking force is generated by mechanisms inside the device. This is automatic, so you don’t have to concentrate on anything more than catching and cushioning the climber’s fall. This gives you a lot of confidence in your safety, which is very pleasant. However, these many advantages over a normal belay device are dampened by the higher price. However, since safety is the number one priority when climbing, the higher price is always justified!
Almost every belay device with brake assist behaves differently. The difference can be enormous. Nevertheless, a few general advantages and disadvantages can be summarized.
Advantages:
- Assists the belaying person in catching a fall
- A greater sense of safety than conventional belay devices
- Abseiling is smooth and controllable
Disadvantages:
- More expensive than normal tube belay devices
- Heavier than any other type of belay device
- With many belay devices with brake assist, only one rope can be used at a time
- Belay devices with brake assist usually only support the common rope diameters. Before you use extremely thick or thin climbing ropes with it, you should check whether this belay device is compatible with the climbing rope diameters.
Figure 8
A Figure 8* is mainly used for rappelling and rescue situations. It can also be used for belaying when toprope climbing or lead climbing.
The form is like an 8, hence the name. To use the Figure 8, you only have to pass the rope as a loop through the large opening and then place the loop once around the other end with the small opening. The whole thing is then connected to your climbing harness by a lockable carabiner at the small opening.
By redirecting the climbing rope several times, a high mechanical resistance is built up, so that you can easily control the rope. However, the control and the braking force transmitted to the climbing rope is not as high as with a belay device with brake assist.
Advantages:
- Quite cheap and lightweight
- Ideal for abseiling
- Can be used with any rope
Disadvantages:
- Less friction on the climbing rope, which increases the force you need to belay
Climbing Rope Compatibility
An important detail of any belay device is whether it works with your rope or not. Most belay equipment has a fairly wide range of suitable rope diameters, but if you use a climbing rope that is unsuitable for it, the consequences can be fatal.
If you use a rope that is too thin, the braking force transferred to the climbing rope* can be too low, so that you can only secure your climbing partner correctly with a great deal of strength. If the climber falls, you can burn your hand, because you mainly have to brake the rope with your hands.
If the climbing rope is too thick, it cannot be threaded through the belay device in the first place, or the friction is so big that the climber feels a high resistance when climbing.
Especially with belay devices with brake assist, you should know exactly how thick your rope is when you buy it. If you’re unsure, you should measure it. Calculate a small error on the measurement and then compare your value with the data of the manufacturer of the belay device.
You should also know beforehand whether you want to use two ropes or not. With almost all ATC belay devices you can use two ropes. With a belay device with brake assist, you can only use one rope. Because an basic ATC is pretty lightweight, a lot of climbers who use a belay device with brake assist, just have a backup ATC whenever they have to rappel with two ropes.
Which Belay Device for Which Situation?
Belay Devices for Beginners
Although belay devices with active braking support are very attractive, you should start with a simple ATC belay device if you are just beginning to climb. This way you can learn the basic techniques before you buy a complicated belay device.
A normal tube belay device without brake assist is ideal for the beginning. There are no moving parts to watch out for and using it properly is very simple. The big advantage about them is also that they are suitable for almost everything when climbing. You can safely catch a fall of your climbing partner and let him down again at the end of the climbing route in a controlled manner.
Our buy recommendation is clearly the Black Diamond ATC XP*. For more information, see the buy recommendations section below.
Belay Devices for Single-Pitch Routes
For single-pitch routes, i.e. routes with only one stage where the climber can be lowered to the ground at any time, the belaying device must be able to handle falls with confidence. Ideally it should be also very easy to lower the climber down to the ground without him having to rappel. In addition, the force required to lock the rope should be as low as possible.
The weight of the belay device is of secondary priority, because safety is more important than comfort. Also, you should not be afraid of the somewhat complicated belay devices with brake assist, as they offer you a lot more safety and functions.
If you consider these many requirements, our choice is clearly the GriGri 2 from Petzl*, details about this device you can see below in the section with our buy recommendations.
Belay Devices for Multi-Pitch Routes
A multi-pitch route is belayed on the rock face. In our opinion, belay devices that have an auto-block function and can be attached directly to the anchor are best suited for this purpose. This gives you all the functions you need to belay during a multi-pitch route and the convenience of the Auto-Block function.
We also recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide* if you want to use two ropes at the same time and do not want a belay device with brake assist. If one rope is enough for you and you already have some experience in belaying, the GriGri 2 from Petzl also works perfectly here. Especially if you choose climbing routes where you are at your limit, a belay device with brake assist is definitely a good idea. This will not only increase your safety, but also conserves your strength when belaying. For rappelling at the end of the route you can still take a normal belay device or a Figure 8.
Buy Recommendation: The Best Belay Devices
With Brake Assist: Petzl GriGri 2
Rope diameter: 8,9..11 mm
- Rope slots: 1
- Weight: 185 g
- Pro: Widely used standard; Relatively simple to use; Very good control; Also suitable for thin climbing ropes
- Con: Only one rope; More expensive than ATC’s/Tubes; Relatively heavy
The Petzl GriGri 2* has long been one of the most popular belay devices with brake assist. There are many climbers who from the beginning of their climbing career only know and swear by this belay device.
Many have tried to imitate the GriGri but especially when it comes to its perfect handling of the climbing rope and the outstanding ability to catch a fall, the GriGri is unbeatable.
There is now also the GriGri+, which has a panic function. This function consists of a lever that can be pulled to automatically stop the climbing rope if it is pulled through too quickly. This option can be especially useful for beginners if you are afraid to neglect your technique in stressful situations.
The GriGri 2 can independently hold the weight of a climber, which saves a lot of strength. However, this auto-block function is static, which means that if the climber falls, the belay device immediately holds the rope in place. If you want to cushion the fall a little more dynamically, you have to go up with the movement of the rope and even jump a little in an emergency.
To lower the climber, pull the lever on the left side of the belay device. You can use it to determine the speed very smoothly. It is just as smooth to feed more climbing rope. To feed climbing rope very quickly, the brake mechanism can be pressed down, so that the rope no longer gets friction. It is best to do this with your right hand, which still holds on to the lower end of the rope so that you can react quickly.
Despite its rather high price, the GriGri 2 is one of the most popular belay devices in the world. However, the price is justified in any case, as you get a high degree of additional safety with this belay device. In addition, you save a lot of strength when belaying, which not only helps you when climbing later on but also prevents injuries.
And if you take a closer look, other belay devices with brake assist are in the same price category, but do not offer the same high performance.
Without Brake Assist: Black Diamond ATC XP
- Rope diameter: 7,7..11 mm
- Rope slots: 2
- Weight: 89 g
- Pro: Very smooth feeding and rappelling; good control when abseiling
- Con: More strength required
The Black Diamond ATC XP* is ideally suited for learning how to belay, as it has a very minimalistic design and still delivers good performance. Moreover, the low price is also quite attractive for beginners as the first climbing rack can become quite expensive and you don’t have to spend too much money on it.
The difference to the normal Black Diamond ATC is the side with which you brake the climbing rope. The grooves in the metal brake the rope 3 times harder than the normal version. Despite these grooves, however, the braking force does not come close to automatic belay devices such as the GriGri. Nevertheless, you will save a lot of energy if you compare it to classic devices. You can also change the side with which you brake to switch between a strong and a less strong braking force.
The low weight and the multitude of possible applications make the Black Diamond ATC XP a popular second device for belaying. With a GriGri, for example, you cannot work with two ropes. You won’t notice the extra 89 grams in your pocket when climbing or hiking.
When rappelling, the Black Diamond ATC XP is in no way inferior to a belay device with brake assist such as the GriGri. You can very well control the speed when abseiling and the holes on the side of the material help to keep the device cool.
For Multi-Pitch Routes: Black Diamond ATC Guide
- Rope diameter: 7,7..11 mm
- Rope slots: 2
- Weight: 88 g
- Pro + Con: Same as ATC XP, but can be attached to an anchor
If you want to keep the possibility open to climb multi-pitch routes in the future, you should buy the Black Diamond ATC Guide* instead of the Black Diamond ATC XP. With the additional handle on the side, you can attach it to an anchor with a lockable carabiner and secure your climbing partner from there.
Especially with thicker ropes this belay device gets along better than its competitors.
Just as with the ATC XP, the braking force is quite strong for a manual belay device due to the grooves in the metal and can hold a hanging climber without much effort.
For Big Weight Differences: Edelrid Ohm
When belaying, the problem often arises that one of the two climbers is heavier than the other. If the person belaying is heavier than the climber, it is the smaller problem. The belayer should catch the fall more gently if the climber falls by jumping up, otherwise the climber will be stopped too abruptly. You should always try to avoid an abrupt stop, otherwise excessive forces will affect the climbing rope, the anchors and also the climber himself, who can be injured by stopping too quickly.
The other case is when the climber is much heavier than the belayer. In most climbing gyms you can simply clip yourself to the ground so that you don’t take off when the climber falls. But this is not ideal, because the climber is stopped too abruptly.
The Edelrid Ohm* was developed precisely for this problem. The Edelrid Ohm is not a belay device. It is only a device to support the belayer. The device is attached to the first anchor and the climbing rope is threaded through it. If your climbing partner climbs up normally, he doesn’t notice any major resistance. Only when he falls does the Edelrid Ohm exert a great mechanical resistance on the climbing rope, which effectively brakes it. You can imagine this device as a second belayer. You can compensate for a weight difference of up to 40 kg with this device. It is only important that the device is only used if the climber is heavier than the person belaying it and not the other way around.
The classic scenario that leads to the use of the Edelrid Oms is a pair of a strong man and a petite woman.
Other Belay Equipment
- Climbing gloves or belay gloves*: Since I once burned my fingers really badly when grabbing a fast rope, I never belay without gloves again. Such gloves not only protect your hands from burns, it is much easier to stop the rope with them because they have a very good grip. This will save you some energy that you will need later when climbing.
Belay glasses*: Belay glasses consist of a frame with two prisms as lenses. Through these prisms you look upwards when your eyes are normally directed forward. There are two big advantages to wearing these glasses. Firstly, you have an eye on your climbing partner all the time because there is nowhere else to look, and secondly, you protect your neck considerably because you don’t have to look up all the time.
Final Thoughts
The belay device is essential for the safety of the climber when climbing. So, choosing the right belay device is very important. Your advantage is that you can profit from the years of experience of other climbers and know in advance which belay equipment is best suited for you.
The conclusion of our buy recommendations is easy to draw. For beginners and all those who prefer a classic belay device the Black Diamond ATC Guide is the right choice. Otherwise you won’t get past a GriGri. This Petzl belay device has been the undisputed winner among belay devices for years.
No matter which belay device you decide on in the end, you have to know how to use it. Read the operating instructions and, in the case of a complicated belay device, have someone who is experienced in handling them explain it to you.
Climbing is about fun and if you have confidence in your equipment and skills, your mind is free to enjoy climbing.
Climb safe!
Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions.
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